Иберийн дерби: Хилийн хоёр тал дахь хөлбөмбөгийн халуурал

Children leapt into each other’s arms. Some clambered onto their friends’ shoulders. Others simply screamed at the giant screen.

A group of teenage girls sat cross-legged on the cobblestones, praying Portugal would not find an equaliser to Spain’s stoppage-time goal.

It could have been Madrid, Seville, or almost anywhere else in Spain. Instead, this was all taking place just a few hundred metres from the country’s border with Portugal.

Watching the World Cup from Spain — and especially as a Spanish football reporter for The Athletic — there was nowhere else I wanted to be.

But for the purposes of this article, I spent the first half of Monday night’s World Cup last-16 match in the Portuguese town of Valenca, before crossing the border again at half-time to follow the rest in neighbouring Tui.

Fortunately for the scores of celebrating locals in that town — and for this story — I got the order right…

Spain and Portugal share a 1,214-kilometre (754-mile) border known simply as La Raya (The Line) in Spanish. It is the longest, and the oldest, in the European Union.

Yet for the past three decades, it has barely felt like a border at all.

Since the Schengen Agreement came into force in 1995, people and goods have moved freely between the two countries, and for many locals, crossing from one side to the other is just part of everyday life.

Depending on prices, you might buy petrol, a new car or electronics in Spain, before heading back to Portugal for cod, groceries or even a dentist’s appointment.

Among the best-known twin towns along this frontier are Tui, home to around 17,000 people, in Spain, and Valenca, population of roughly 14,000, in Portugal. The two are linked by the International Bridge over the river Miño (Minho in Portuguese). Locals speak of the towns as a single community split only by history.

Legend has it that the bridge, completed in 1886, was designed by Gustave Eiffel.

He did not.

Eiffel, who helped design Paris’ tower, submitted a proposal but was beaten to it by Asturian engineer Pelayo Mancebo y Agreda.

By modern standards, the bridge feels remarkably narrow. As you drive across from Spain, the steel lattice almost wraps itself around your car before giving way to the cobbled streets, tiled facades and imposing fortress walls over in Portugal.

There, I found myself presented with the first question of the night: where to watch the game? According to locals, Valenca does not bother with giant public screens for football. Everyone watches at the same place: Bar Que?

The view before kick-off in Bar Que? in Valenca (Guillermo Rai/The Athletic)

Usually, it is filled with Benfica supporters. During this World Cup, it has hosted a more diverse crowd, including Camino de Santiago pilgrims and the occasional Spaniard.

When I arrive, half an hour before kick-off, a woman wearing an apron lifts the lid from an enormous pot containing more than 20 kilograms (44lb) of meat in a delicious-looking sauce. This is to make bifanas.

Yes, this was as good as it looks. But there was better to come in Tui… (Guillermo Rai/The Athletic)

The famous Portuguese sandwich is wonderfully simple: thin slices of pork are marinated in garlic, white wine and spices before being slowly cooked until tender. Supporters queue patiently while waiters weave between tables carrying trays of Sagres and Super Bock beers.

A Portuguese flag flutters above the terrace, where hundreds of fans — many wearing Cristiano Ronaldo shirts — sing the national anthem. Unlike Spain’s Marcha Real, Portugal’s A Portuguesa has lyrics.

“The Iberian derby brings the world to a standstill,” reads the headline on Portuguese state broadcaster RTP1.

Despite being only a few hundred metres from Spain, there are almost no Spain supporters to be found today.

Luis Palhares owns Casa Alvarinho, a household goods shop popular with Spanish customers looking for tablecloths, towels and porcelain from Vista Alegre and Bordallo Pinheiro. His wife is Spanish. But she is not here.

“Normally we watch football together,” he says. “Today is different. She’s watching in Tui because it’s Spain against Portugal. My children are there too, although they’re supporting Portugal.

“That’s life on the border. Portuguese people support Portugal. Some Galicians support Portugal too. But my wife is with Spain.”

Luis Palhares and family (Luis Palhares)

The match has begun.

As supporters finish their bifanas, Joao Cancelo produces Portugal’s first effort on goal, drawing a collective gasp from the crowds. The atmosphere is calm rather than feverish, although Mikel Oyarzabal’s chance after eight minutes briefly raises the anxiety levels.

Diogo Costa’s outstanding double save from Lamine Yamal and Alex Baena midway through the first half is celebrated like a goal. So is Renato Veiga’s perfectly timed intervention a few minutes later.

Children in the front row cannot resist shouting “Siuuu!” whenever Portugal attack, taking turns to recreate Cristiano Ronaldo’s trademark celebration in front of the television.

One of them stands out. He is wearing a Spain shirt with Lamine Yamal’s name and number on the back.

The view outside Bar Que as the match progresses (Guillermo Rai/The Athletic)

“We live in Tui,” says his father, another Portugal supporter named Diogo, who is also married to a Spaniard.

“If Portugal win tonight, I’ll probably end up sleeping on the sofa,” he laughs.

“My wife absolutely loves football. That’s why my son is wearing that Spain shirt. But nobody really minds. Around here everyone mixes together.”

Just before half-time, the entire terrace rises as Nuno Mendes crashes a deflected shot against the crossbar after another outstanding run down the left.
The applause is followed by a few muttered expletives.

For me, there is no time to waste. As soon as the referee blows for half-time, I head back to the car, drive across the bridge once more and return to Spain.

Travelling across the International Bridge (Guillermo Rai/The Athletic)

A few minutes later, I arrive in Tui’s Plaza da Misericordia, where a giant screen has transformed the town square into an outdoor fan zone.

More than 300 chairs have been laid out, but another few hundred supporters are standing around the screen or watching from the town’s distinctive glass-covered balconies, draped with Spanish and Galician flags.

The atmosphere feels immediately different from Valenca, despite the two towns being separated by only a few hundred metres.

Manu Garrido, a world champion marathon canoeist from Tui, is selling traditional Galician food to help finance his next World Championship trip to Argentina in October. His seafood croquetas even beat the bifana I had before kick-off.

Seafood croquetas made by a world champion canoeist. Welcome to Tui (Guillermo Rai/The Athletic)

Almost immediately after the restart, Spain are on top. Yamal finds more space following Mendes’ injury, prompting cheers from some of the younger supporters in the square.

Every Spain attack draws people a little closer to the giant screen.

Fans in Tui crowd around as the tension rises (Guillermo Rai/The Athletic)

By the midway point of the second half, most of the children have abandoned their seats altogether, gathering just a few metres from the action, as though they might somehow influence what comes next.

Nearby stands Edgar, wearing a Portugal shirt.

He is originally from Cape Verde but now spends much of his time in Tui, his girlfriend’s hometown. Throughout the second half, he barely stops shaking his head.

“Portugal just aren’t at it,” he says. “In Portugal, people are a bit more reserved. Here everything is louder, more emotional. That’s why I wanted to watch the match here. Everyone has treated me brilliantly.”

A short distance away is Mercedes Alonso, Luis Palhares’ wife.

“I always knew I’d be supporting Spain,” she says. “But my son and daughter-in-law were with Portugal supporters and didn’t really feel free to celebrate or react. Whatever happened tonight, my priority was being with my family, so the feeling is bittersweet.”

(Guillermo Rai/The Athletic)

As the clock ticks towards full time, the atmosphere starts to resemble that of a stadium rather than a town square. Every tackle is applauded. Every interception is celebrated. When Pedri is substituted, the crowd rises to salute him.

Moments later, Borja Iglesias comes on, prompting another ovation. The striker is the only Galician in Spain’s squad and plays his club football just down the road for Celta Vigo.

But it is fellow substitute Mikel Merino who scores, setting off a series of wild celebrations with his 91st-minute winner.

Spain fans celebrate after setting up a quarter-final against Belgium(Guillermo Rai/The Athletic)

Across the river, those celebrations never came. On this night along La Raya, the party stopped at the border.